a drilled tank because I already had an 75 gallon tank from a freshwater setup, and I didn't want to spend a few hundred on a new drilled tank at the time. You won't need to prime it again once you add water to the sump. If the water level drops too low in the sump, the worst that can happen is the siphon will stop. As long as I keep the water level where it should be in the sump, everything works fine. My 75 gallon tank looses about 2.5 gallons of RO a week. Out of all the issues I have had with reef equipment, the overlfow has never been one of them. I had a filter/over flow that used an airlifter pump, and it was a piece of junk. It isn't really designed to work with an airlifter pump. It will restart once the sump pump starts up again. If the power goes out, the siphon doesn't break. The "Air Host" is nothing more than a piece of air tubing that you use to create a negative pressure inside the siphon tube by sucking out enough air with your mouth to create a siphon. They are well made, and I think you will probably have zero problems. Ideally, you should always have a drilled tank, but sometimes it just isn't possible to do. The key is to lock the flow in right where you need it. If I open the valve a bit more the display tank will slowly overflow as the syphon can't keep up and if I close the valve a bit more, the U-tube will build up bubbles and eventually stop syphoning. Where it's at now it's exactly right at about 300gph. ![]() ![]() Took about 5 minutes of tweaking to find the perfect valve adjustment. I then added a ball valve to the return line so I could adjust the flow down to the exact spot it needed to be. The way I worked that out is I bought a return pump slightly larger than I knew I needed for the overflow (a Mag 5 in my case). The key to syphon overflows is you MUST have a specific amount of flow from your return pump, no less. I've even left on a 5 day vacation where nobody checked up on the tank (have auto topoff). Been using it for 6 months without a single syphon loss.
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